The Shakespeare riots

 This was new to me!

The Shakespeare Riot, also known as The Astor Place Riot occurred on May 10, 1849, at the now-demolished Astor Opera House in Manhattan, New York City.

Its ostensible genesis was a dispute between Edwin Forrest, one of the best-known American actors of that time, and William Charles Macready, a similarly notable English actor, which largely revolved around which of them was better than the other at acting the major roles of Shakespeare.

The riot left 22-31 rioters dead (accounts differ), and more than 120 people injured. 

Interestingly, theatre riots were not a rare occurrence in New York at the time. In the early 19th century, theatre as entertainment was a mass phenomenon, and theatres were the main gathering places in most towns and cities. At the time, audiences treated theatres as places to make their feelings known, not just towards the actors, but towards their fellow theatergoers of different classes or political persuasions. 

As can be imagined, star actors amassed an immensely loyal following, comparable to modern celebrities or sports stars. 

At the time, American theatre was dominated by British actors and managers. The rise of Edwin Forrest as the first American star and the fierce partisanship of his supporters was an early sign of a home-grown American entertainment business. 

It has been said that the riot had been brewing for more than 80 years, since the Stamp Act riots of 1765, when an entire theatre was torn apart while British actors were performing on stage. 

I wish they would record Nigel Cliff's The Shakespeare Riots as an audiobook!

The battle of Baltinglass

Listened to this Documentary on One episode on CBC Radio One this morning. I was at once intrigued as to how a dispute over a post office in a small Irish village in 1950 could bubble up to be considered a ‘battle’. It was a good listen. 

The Battle of Baltinglass 

Review: Bloodstains

Bloodstains by Jeff Mudgett
My rating: 3 of 5 stars

Very dark but compelling.
I've had Eric Larson's "The Devil in the White City" sitting unlistened to in my library for sometime, but decided to read it before reading "Bloodstains". I recommend you do the same, as it provided context.
I like memoirs and have read a few by people who have learned about a parent or relative's criminal history ~ drawn by the curiosity of wondering what that must be like ~ so Bloodlines caught my eye.
But this is no run of the mill serial killer (if there is such a thing), this was the first and worst. A truly evil psychopath. And I knew this story would involve unfathomable darkness. The journey Mudgett took to uncover his family history was inseparable from his own mental illness, which reared its head while he was uncovering revelations. It made for a very dark story indeed. But I am glad I read it.
There is an oddity about this book in that it has a music and sound effects in the background throughout most of it, and it was distracting. Like B-grade movie, the amateurish audio effects drew attention to them, instead of enhancing the story.

Read my review of The Devil in the White City
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Review: Devil in the White City

The Devil in the White City: Murder, Magic, and Madness at the Fair That Changed America by Erik Larson
My rating: 4 of 5 stars

Dark history in the white city.
After a false start a year ago, when I couldn't get into this book, I picked it up again. I had just come across "Bloodstains" by Jeff Mudgett, the great grandson of the "devil" in this book, and thought I should read this first (I recommend reading them in this order; it gave good context for Mudgett's revelations).
Overall, this was a pretty good book, but tying together two largely unrelated storylines isn't easy to do. While both were joined by the time and place of the Chicago World's Fair, flipping from a mass murderer's arrival in the city to the architects planning the site couldn't help but feel disjointed.
In the end, the stories were joined in the grizzly nightmares and calamities during the fair. It was disturbing to learn that the disappearing women barely registered with authorities and the "devil" carried on under their noses.
It is a dark history, but interesting nonetheless.

Read my review of Bloodstains
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Opera Garnier learnings

I have been a fan of the Opera Garnier since I stumbled upon it early into my month in Paris in 2009. I was already blown away by the building when I looked up and first set eyes on Chagall's remarkable ceiling. I gushed at the time, and have since acquired a tremendous print of the ceiling (yet to be framed) and a book or two.

Yet, despite learning that construction began in the 1860's, I never really thought about how that Chagall got there.

Then, this morning, reading an old copy of a Sunday NY Times left over from a vacation (I buy a copy and read it front to back over a week, and unfinished sections set aside... one of which just surfaced), I had a major ah ha moment:

"Among the theater's most famous fixtures are the chandelier and the painted ceiling that surrounds it ~ originally by Jules Eugène Lenepveu, then replaced in 1964 with a new sprawling work by Marc Chagall depicting scenes from operas by Mozart, Wagner and more."
Behind the Curtain at the Paris Opera, New York Times, September 8, 2019

Of course!!!!

Review: Pictures at an Exhibition

Pictures at an Exhibition by Sara Houghteling
My rating: 5 of 5 stars

The art world post WWII
I really enjoyed this book, and my only complaint was that it wasn't longer. Set in Paris on the heels of World War II, the story provides unique insights on what the city was like at the time when concentration camp horrors were just coming to light, and those who had gone underground for years were reemerging. Who had survived and who hadn't was still unknown. Owners were returning to the homes they fled only to find them occupied, abandoned after serving as Nazi facilities, or destroyed. I haven't encountered many books that captured this time so well. It is against this setting that the story is set. The son of an art dealer scours the city, looking for works that had belonged to his family, unearthing forgeries and family secrets as he goes. And, yes, re-finding his lost love and slowly learning of the lengths she went to save great works of art, disguised as an obedient clerk in the Louvre. A great listen for art and history fans.

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Review: The Girl from Krakow

The Girl from Krakow by Alex Rosenberg
My rating: 5 of 5 stars

I just finished this book, listening on Audible, and can definitely recommend it.

Only towards the end of the book I started wondering about the book's title, because she wasn't actually from Krakow. Poland, yes, but not Krakow. Thanks to Alex Rosenberg's unexpected storyline, I was satisfied to understand by the end.

What an engaging story, and a character so well developed, I was sure she was real. World War II from the perspective of a Jewish woman who survived, in the open, in a disguise of her own creation, was remarkable. An interesting book on so many levels, with stories from Barcelona to Moscow built in. The loves and losses of Rita were brought to life through Michael Page's excellent narration.

Alex Rosenberg - the author's website

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BIG list of museum podcasts

I stumbled across a great blog post the other day, essentially a collection of podcasts by museums around the globe. Whether you're preparing to visit a particular museum, are a podcast-addict or just live a curious life, Hannah Hethmon's hard work collecting all these podcasts, is sure to please.

Hannah Hethmon's BIG list of museum podcasts

Every Museum Podcast in One Big List

My own podcast about Icelandic museums, Museums in Strange Places, has given me the chance to see “behind-the-curtain” in so many amazing museums, and if I’ve learned one thing, it’s that museums are leaving so many of their most human and compelling stories untold. Since it’s through podcasting that I’ve discovered these stories, I started to wonder how museums around the world were using podcasting to have a more intimate platform for telling stories and engaging their audience. To that end, I scoured all the podcasting platforms and reached out to the Twitterverse and Facebook groups to compile the most complete list of podcasts by museums on the internet. 

How the List is Organized (and Who I Left Off)  

I’ve divided the podcasts I’ve found into history museums, science and natural history museum, art museums, and a category for mixed-interest and other museums that don’t fit in the previous groups... [continue reading Every Museum Podcast in One Big List].

Would the real Checkpoint Charlie please stand up?

If you've been to Berlin and think you have visited Checkpoint Charlie, but have not ventured out of the city core, you probably saw the replica at the site where Checkpoint Charlie once stood. The "real" Checkpoint Charlie lives at the Allied Museum. In fact, there are two Charlies in residence here.

All that remains of the original hut erected at Checkpoint Charlie in 1961 is this facade, but it is preserved inside at the museum:
Outside the museum is the actual Checkpoint Charlie building that was removed, intact, from where it stood on the border between East and West Berlin in 1989 when the wall fell. Note: In the background of this picture, you can also see a train car; the Allies ran regular military trains during the occupation period and this is a car that has been preserved.

Silly Canadian girl getting her picture taken with Charlie....

The museum also has a real watchtower, complete with a working spotlight, and a slice of the Berlin Wall:

This watchtower once stood at Potsdamer Platz and Bernauer Strasse and inside there is a red phone from the day when the tower was in use. To quote from the adjacent plaque, "The Red Telephone connected the last supreme commander of the former Soviet Forces in Germany, Colonel General M. P. Burkakov with his superiors in Moscow." Spooky....

The pride of the museum is, without doubt, The Royal Air Force Hastings TG 503 aircraft that was flown as part of the Berlin Airlift during the Berlin Blockade of 1948-1949.

I actually got to tour the plane! While the museum is open daily, the aircraft tours only take place on specific days, so it took some organizing for me to get there on a Sunday! Here is my ticket which cost me a whole 1E (the museum was free)... cool the way they've done the tour tickets up, probably for appreciation by the kids, but I liked it too.

Up the stairs and just inside, looking out....

Sitting IN the plane, watching a movie about the Berlin Airlift. The film was only in German (you can learn all the history in English in the exhibitions) but a picture truly is worth a thousand words, and I still enjoyed it. Interesting to see it with a few children, important that they understand this history...

Waaaaay coool picture taken looking out the window, with the museum signage in the background....

Seeing this sign, and the spot where they hung their parachutes, made the visit very real. The airlift was not without its tragedies, including fatalities (39 on the British side, 31 on the American side, and at least 8 deaths on the German side).

The cockpit was quite something....

There were lots of other interesting exhibits, not the least of which was this jeep. There are 2 jeeps at the museum, both well preserved/restored... there's some interesting info about the acquisition of one of them.

Smile!!!!

This was a neat display, showing telephones, bus stop signs and postal boxes from the British, French and American occupying forces. They also had displays of uniforms from all three, if you are into that kind of thing...

Another remarkable exhibit is the authentic spy tunnel. During an 11-month period in 1954-1955 - in order to avoid being surprised again by actions such as the Berlin Blockade - the American and British intelligence services made clever use of a 450-metre long tunnel used for underground telephone cables used by the Soviet armed forces in the GDR (East Germany) buy tapping the lines. There was quite the broohaha when the tunnel came to light, thanks to a British double agent named George Blake who spilled the beans to the Soviets. This last remaining section of the tunnel was salvaged in 2005.

Lot and lots of other good exhibits. Couldn't resist taking a pic of this kid checking out a model of of an airport with a bunch of the planes.

Just a nice pic of one of the two buildings on site; the "Outpost" used to be a theatre, and they have done a clever job of repurposing the space without gutting it. Love the art deco feel.

Here's the Outpost at dusk with its neon lights on...

Finally, but actual first, was this statue I came upon on my way to the museum from the U-Bahn; it is actually part of the museum's collection. It is called "The Day The Wall Came Down". It's a very moving piece. The horses are life sized and seemed so real, and the torn and toppled wall pieces captured the moment. I wonder whether the horses symbolized the ones at Brandenburg Gate (which were imprisioned in the "no man's land" for 28 years); even if they don't, that's what it brought to mind for me.

Overall, a very good museum. It was maybe 20 minutes, 30 max, to get to the museum. Its doubtful you'll find crowds but you'll definitely find real "stuff". I spent 2-3 hours there. Depending on your level of interst in the history, you could spend less time (most do), or spend more time (I'm sure there are some, I still only absorbed about 1/2 of it). The website also has some good information, if you are patient, as the organization isn't the best, but the content is good.

I hope to return again this trip, as beginning on November 6, 2009 (the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall), the museum will commence a new special exhibit, "Wall Patrol: The Western Powers on the Berlin wall, 1961-1990" (runs until April 5, 2010).

I'll be looking down at the sidewalks now, could very well bump into warchalking WiFi searchers

I haven't yet been taking my laptop out seeking wireless connections in this city, the low number of locations available from the paid services has me holding back. But thought this was pretty interesting:

Warchalking is the practice of marking a series of symbols on sidewalks and walls to indicate nearby wireless access. That way, other computer users can pop open their laptops and connect to the Internet wirelessly. It was inspired by the practice of hobos during the Great Depression to use chalk marks to indicate which homes were friendly.

I'll be keeping my eyes open!